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The belt slides down, the step seam cuts into the body ... Especially strongly from the convex belly
the landing of trousers suffers. However, there is a solution: just learn how to customize the pattern!
The size of the trousers is determined by the hip circumference of approx. 20 cm below the waist.
The necessary increases in length and width on a convex belly should be made in a paper pattern of the front half of the trousers. For the increase in width, the number you are looking for is the difference between your waist circumference and a similar measurement in the burda size chart.
The increase in length depends on the increase in width. If the width is added up to 4 cm, then an increase in length is not required. With an increase in width of 4-6 cm, the pattern is lengthened by 5 mm, with an increase in width of 6-8 cm - by 1 cm.
First lengthen the pattern ...
On a paper pattern of the front half, draw a midline, aligning the step edge with the side (bend = middle). Lay out the pattern again in one layer.
Approx 15 cm below the waist, draw a horizontal auxiliary line strictly under
right angle to the drawn midline. At a distance of approx. 10 cm from the side edge, draw a vertical support line. Cut the pattern along the auxiliary horizontal line from the leading edge almost to the lateral edge and along the auxiliary vertical line from the upper edge almost to the horizontal line (1).
Glue a strip of paper from the front edge under the cut, evenly adding the required number of centimeters (see the section “It is important to know”), while a bevel is formed from the vertical cut to the side edge and the edges of the vertical cut will diverge in shape
cars 2).
Measure the depth of the formed tuck and subtract the obtained number of centimeters from the desired increase in width.
... and then fit it!
On the pattern, draw at the level of the knees (see the transverse mark on the pattern) a horizontal auxiliary line strictly at right angles to the drawn line
horseradish. Cut the pattern along the midline from the top edge to the horizontal line. Then cut the pattern in a horizontal line on both sides of the midline almost to the side / step edge (3).
Glue a strip of paper under the wedge-shaped vertical cut to
the level of the knees, adding the right number of centimeters in width.
In this case, the edges of the horizontal section also diverge (4). Please note that the increases are symmetrical and uniform, otherwise the structural balance will be violated. At the end, draw a new line of direction for the shared thread, simply extending the old one to the top edge of the pattern.
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